Puglia Autentica

Immense marble quarries surround the vineyards of CANTINE LE GROTTE, a winery in Apricena (fg).     The small village, located close to the Gargano, is famous for the quality of its stone and its excellent wine, and is appreciated for its fertile soil and pleasant climate. At the winery we breathe the scent of centuries, of the history that has made this area important and of the tradition that survives and makes its way through progress.     Guiding us on this journey between stone and wine is Biagio Cruciani, the winery's sales manager, who tells us about a strongly identity-driven enterprise whose birth is inextricably linked to that of the town. Apricena is "attached" to the history of its stone, and that of Cantine Le Grotte embraces the local marble tradition.     It is in the Dell'Erba family quarries that the vineyards from which the wine is produced are planted. The family's marble-making tradition is also imprinted on the company logo: a large block of stone split by a vine, two elements of nature that coexist with each other.     It is from the living rock, from the fertile earth, that the story of Cantine Le Grotte's plant was born, immersed in nature and surrounded by greenery. It is a palette of colors that is presented to our eyes. The white of the nearby stone quarries allows the green of the landscape to triumph with its immense seasonal hues, while the blue of the sky divides the green of the sea from Lake Lesina and the Tremiti Islands in the background.     The vineyards are located in the foothills of the Gargano and are rooted in mineral-rich limestone soils, the same soils in which the best Apricena stone is grown. The winery produces excellent native red wines such as Nero di Troia and Primitivo along with international varietals such as Merlot and Sirah that have adapted well to the area's warm, temperate climate. Respect for the area of origin is one of the characteristics in which the winery continually invests.     Its philosophy espouses a concept of cultivation in which nature does the work. The link with Apricena is also told through the names of the wines.     Petrata, for example, is vinified in red from the Nero di Troia grape variety or in white from Bombino and is the "Italianized" version of the dialect term for quarry. The red has powerful hints of blackberry, while the white is finer and fruitier. Selva della Rocca, vinified in red (Primitivo and Nero di Troia), rosé (Nero di Troia) and white (Falanghina) is named after the Santa Maria Selva della Rocca Sanctuary in Apricena, probably built between the 8th and 9th centuries by Benedictine monks, and all are fine wines with intense, fruity and floral aromas.     Not to be missed are the bubbles in Charmat and Merlot Classico versions, and completing the line is the Sico high catering version identified by a label depicting a medieval coin called "Sicone" from the Lombard period found in existing vineyards. Wines that symbolize gratitude and respect for this land and are inspired by it to offer the consumer all their goodness.    

It was the beginning of the 1960s when Vittorio Fiume made his first experiments with liqueurs and almond milk in a small artisan laboratory.   Animated by his passion for Puglia, at the time he was probably unaware that those artisanal attempts of his would have transformed over time into an Apulian brand known throughout the world. The history of the Fiume brand is a story that speaks of love.   Love for Puglia, for herbs, spices and infusions. Located in the industrial area of Putignano, a town famous for its ancient Carnival, the Fiume plant today produces highly appreciated drinks in the liqueur and non-alcoholic sector.   The Fiume brand liqueurs communicate the link with the territory, starting with the raw materials. As Caterina Fiume, Vittorio's daughter and brand research and development manager, explains to us, one of the first liqueurs to bear her father's signature is the "Elisir dei Trulli", whose name evokes a miraculous potion and amazes with the enveloping flavor of the alcoholic and aromatic notes.   Chocolate, rum, hazelnut and coffee are some of the scents of the Elisir dei Trulli, which offer the consumer a sensory journey that delights the palate with warm and intense flavours. The "Amaro Pugliese", famous contemporary of Elisir dei Trulli, is famous because it conveys Apulian character not only in the name but also in the choice of raw materials.   And so in the Officinal Teriaca of Amaro Pugliese we discover mint, fennel, sage, artichoke, citrus fruits and so on. All raw materials from the area, transformed to create a amaro that speaks of customs and collective memory.   While she tells us about Amaro Pugliese, Caterina takes out a small box with some of the herbs used. And so, next to the mint, a native herbaceous plant, we notice the China Succirubra which instead comes from Ecuador, the Rhubarb, typical of China and the Quassio of Jamaica. And it's incredible how a single liqueur can contain entire portions of the world while remaining tied to tradition.   {IMAGE_0}{IMAGE_1}   Tradition that is also expressed in the "Limoncello", produced according to the ancient recipe of Caterina's grandmother and which seals a little secret handed down from generation to generation. Remaining on the side of alcoholic beverages, "Amarum" is another Fiume brand creation that mixes territoriality and international influences.   In Amarum, Jamaican rum sublimates the infusion of local spices and nuts. A amaro so precious as to be recognized at the SIAL in Paris in 2008 as one of the 100 most innovative products, and awarded at the 2020 Rome Bar Show for being able to make the most of the excellence of the territory.   For those who don't like alcohol, there is a decidedly tasty alternative. It is the "Almond Milk", born as a syrup, now also in the delicious ready-to-drink version, Mandorlè, and which is produced by extraction using only and exclusively sweet Apulian almonds.   Yet another trait of attachment to its origins of a brand that, with one foot in Puglia and one in the world, takes its drinks beyond national borders.    

"A splendid and exciting adventure"     When we ask Michele Clemente, President of Olearia Clemente, to tell us the entrepreneurial story of one of Italy's largest oil companies, he answers exactly that: a splendid and exciting adventure.     It can only be otherwise for a company with a hundred years of activity that ploughs through the years and was founded in Manfredonia, in the heart of the Gargano, amidst olive trees with imposing foliage and intertwined trunks, a perfect tangle that is only Mother Nature's.     We arrive at the farm through vast expanses of olive groves where the green of the leaves and fruit dominates the existing land. The dense foliage of the olive trees is barely moved by a light breeze that smells of the vegetation and saltiness of the nearby Adriatic Sea, which reaches our sense of smell, conciliating our senses.     In this unspoilt landscape, barely touched by anthropisation, lies Olearia Clemente. The history of Olearia Clemente is that of a family that has been dedicated to the agricultural and olive-growing tradition for five generations.     It was inaugurated in 1895 by Berardino Clemente, the great-grandfather of the current owners, siblings Michele, Antonello, Carla and Ilenia, with the precise aim of offering the market an excellent product that would enhance the cultivars of this area.     This objective was pursued through the direct management of the entire production process, starting with the fruit, harvested perfectly healthy, often by hand, and processed using special technologies that allow a product unique in taste and aroma to be obtained. Olearia Clemente should be credited with the ability to give extra virgin olive oil the value it deserves, disrupting the belief that it is just a condiment but making it, instead, a cornerstone food of the Mediterranean diet.     The experience gained over the years is the key to producing pure and natural extra virgin olive oil. In Olearia Clemente's sublime olive pressing we have Apulian cultivars, such as Coratina, Ogliarola Garganica and Peranzana, monocultivars that have their own specificity with explosive organoleptic qualities that taste of herbaceousness, sweetness, fruit and nature.     From respect for the latter comes the line of organic oils including 'U Polp', extra virgin DOP Dauno del Gargano with a unique flavour and packaging that in its colours and designs winks at the veracity of Apulia.     A precise bouquet of scents and flavours is what 'Zagare' oil gives, a 100% Italian cold-pressed oil named after the flowers surrounding the Gargano citrus groves.     The Zagare line is a historic line, now launched in a modern version that symbolises the fifth generation of Olearia Clemente. In this oil, whose fruits are kissed by the sun and blessed by the air, the company's centuries-old tradition is combined with the impetus towards the future represented by the very young Eliana, Leonardo, Berardino and Rosistella, who are eager to take Olearia Clemente to as yet unexplored frontiers.    

In the heart of Brindisi, a thriving land rich in millennia-old archaeological wonders, the Cantine Pandora winery was born.       Officially, the history of the business begins in 2017, but that of its founder has somewhat more remote origins. The owner, Francesco Fumarulo, owes his fortune to the land and his work as a farmer. With pride and transportation, Francesco explains that his passion for winemaking began as a child, and then over the years became a real profession culminating in the creation of Cantine Pandora.       The establishment stands in the midst of nature, among majestic olive trees, grazing animals, long rows of grapes and vast expanses of fields. Cradled by the healthy, placid air of Brindisi, Cantine Pandora's grapes turned into excellent red, white and rosé wine are almost all from Salento.       Francesco's willingness to contribute to the growth of his area is attested to by a very specific choice: to use largely native vines of Primitivo, Negramaro, Malvasia Nera and Malvasia Bianca grown according to organic standards.       With incredible respect for tradition and the aid of modern winemaking technology, Cantine Pandora is now a successful winery. The bottles are a small masterpiece that encapsulate the hard work, the love of the land, the work in the vineyard and in the cellar and, not surprisingly, they can all bear the IGP label.   {IMAGE_0}{IMAGE_1}   As the legend about the ancient Pandora's Box tells us, uncorking a bottle from this winery is tantamount to discovering all the good and beautiful of the land of origin.  Wine, otherwise also known as "nectar of the gods," for Cantine Pandora has an actual connection with divinity, to the point of deserving names that recall mythology.       To one of the "kings" of Salento, Primitivo, is dedicated Zeus, appellation of the highest Olympian deity. Zeus is a purplish-colored red produced from hand-picked grapes in the area's ancient vines, soft and enveloping with hints of red fruit.       Negramaro and Malvasia are the vines from which the grapes of Prometeo come, another red wine made from historic vines bred to trees that give the wine a delicate, broad, intense and pleasantly dry and full-bodied flavor. Then we find Ermes, Negramaro del Salento vinified in purity with the traditional method, tannic and structured to the right point. To Athena and Aphrodite are dedicated two of the rosés, both obtained from Negroamaro grapes and with intense fruity and very balanced scents. Among the whites we find Gea, a Malvasia Bianca del Salento wine with a refined, structured and persistent character or the charming Era, created from Chardonnay grapes that stands out for its golden hues and fine, dry but harmonious flavor.       Cantine Pandora's flagship product is the red '71 IGT, aged 6 months in French oak barrels. Strong, generous and intense are its aromas, so reminiscent of dried figs, which in this wine produced from Primitivo vines give it an original and strong-willed character.       Wines that fascinate the consumer for their overpowering and vigorous content, just like the territory from which they come.    

A typical mildly hilly Murgia landscape, made more barren by the paths of the karst blades that furrow its path. We are in ACQUAVIVA DELLE FONTI (ba), a small village in Puglia that, like a precious ancient mosaic, delights visitors with its beauty.     In this area that encloses ancient farms surrounded by the inimitable dry-stone walls, trulli and underground caves, the Iannone Farm was founded in 1996, producing the Red Onion and the Red Sponzale of Acquaviva delle Fonti flanked by the Black Chickpea of the Murgia Carsica, a triad of goodness that over the years has won the coveted Slow Food Presidium.     Leading us on this journey that speaks of traditional and incredibly territorial productions is Vito Abrusci, farm manager, whom we meet directly in the field in one of the districts that hosts the cultivation of onion, sponzale and black chickpea following the dictates of organic farming.     One can speak of a genuine advantage that such areas offer to this type of product due to the uniqueness of the organic richness that positively impacts the land. The excellent quality of the deep, potassium-rich, well-drained and aerated soils allow these crops to be born and grow abundantly, preserving all the incredible organoleptic and beneficial characteristics contained by nature.     The cultivation and harvesting of the Iannone company's red onion is manual, and the product is distinguished by its flattened shape and weight that are difficult to replicate. In this vegetable, the outer color is clearly distinguishable, evoking a palette of beautiful shades ranging from red to magenta almost purple and then showing the pale pink interior fading to white.     The sweet taste and intense aroma make the Red Onion perfect for fresh consumption or as a processed product. Speaking of red onion, we cannot fail to mention the sponzale, which is the bulb that is born by reproduction from the mature onion. The company cultivates it according to traditional methods, and the sponzale, also known as sponsale, keeps the delicate and light flavor of the onion intact.     An ancient vegetable whose name of Latin origin evokes the flatbread that was eaten during the sponsàlia, the ceremony that celebrated the future spouses. To think that the black chickpea of the Murgia Carsica has gone into space is something that leaves one astonished. The space chickpea, in every sense of the word, was chosen for its incredible properties for astronaut Samantha Cristoforetti's soup.     It is different from other legumes because of its dark color and hooked, wrinkled shape. Already known in the nineteenth century, Vito explains that Black Chickpea has always been the staple of the agricultural diet as a substitute for meat, at that time a food prerogative only of wealthy families.     The "poor man's meat," as the legume was once called, is palatable and very rich in fiber and iron. A peasant food that opens the door to a wonderful land.    

The destination of our journey is the OLEIFICIO COOPERATIVO CIMA DI BITONTO, a proud bastion of a thousand-year-old tradition in our Apulia region. We are in Bitonto (ba), a few kilometres from the Apulian capital, in the heart of Puglia's extra virgin olive oil production.     An expanse of olive trees as far as the eye can see appears before the eyes of those travelling through the Bari hinterland. Once there, we cannot help but breathe in the intense scent of vegetation, as if we were immersed in an expanse of centuries-old olive trees. After all, nature is not so far away from us here, with the lush greenery of the adjacent Lama Balice, a treasure trove of wild flora and fauna biodiversity.     Waiting for us is Pasquale Mastandrea, President of the Oleificio Cooperativo. From his very first words we sense his boundless love for this generous land and its fruits. The Cima di Bitonto Cooperative has a history of more than sixty years and with its 350 members manages to pursue the incredible commitment of obtaining the best 'olive juice' made in Puglia.     A commitment clearly manifested in the Oleificio's logo, in which the word 'Puro', referring to oil, stands out against the elements of nature. Sun, rain, earth and the fruit that is born: all very important aspects to give the consumer an oil that tastes of tradition. In its years of activity, the Cooperative has managed to safeguard the land and the farmers thanks to a synergic work established with its numerous members.   {IMAGE_0}{IMAGE_1} From them comes the promise to preserve the olive cultivars and to make the area in which they grow known. It is no coincidence that the cultivated varieties are 70% Ogliarola and 30% Coratina: both originate from the growing area and are processed within a few hours of their harvest.     The agronomic methods used by the Cooperative's members are inspired by ancient local traditions and those notions handed down over the centuries that allow the plant to grow healthy and robust. The pruning system adopted allows the best nourishment to the shoots and young branches, so as to obtain a truly exceptional juice.     Cima di Bitonto brand oils are all extra virgin. The decisive character of the Coratina is mitigated by the sweetness of the Cima di Bitonto and the result is an extra virgin oil that combines the peculiarities of both cultivars, resulting in an intense yellow oil with a balanced presence of fruit and herbaceous hints. In addition to the classic extra virgin olive oil, much appreciated for its medium fruitiness, in the Oleificio's product basket we discover the D.O.P Terra di Bari, a harmonious, slightly spicy extra virgin with herbaceous fragrances.     From organic farming comes the 'Biologico' extra virgin olive oil. In this oil, the olive, with its strong flavour, and the almond, which is more delicate, stand out very well and do not alter the taste of a dish but, on the contrary, enhance it as it deserves.    

Three friends with a passion for jazz music and for the indigenous grape varieties of the Tavoliere, an underground cellar with an irresistible charm and sparkling wines that gather admirers from all over the world. There is nothing lacking in the history of Cantine d'Araprì: friendship, love for their land, a far-sighted project and an uncommon entrepreneurial flair.     At the basis of the company was the conviction that it would be possible to produce fine sparkling wines in the south too, using the indigenous Capitanata grape variety: 'Bombino bianco'. This is how the three friends, Girolamo d'Amico, Louis Rapini and Ulrico Priore created their dream in 1979. Cantine d'Araprì is the first company in Apulia to produce sparkling wine using the classic method.     A courageous choice, which over time has proved successful and led to numerous awards. Entering their cellar, one cannot fail to notice the dozens of awards won over the years for the skill with which they enhance the territory. The building housing Cantina d'Araprì, dating back to the beginning of the 18th century and located in the historic centre of San Severo (fg), seems almost like a house that holds extraordinary treasures.     We discover to our amazement that beneath our feet are a thousand square metres of underground cellar accessed through a maze of tunnels and galleries. The space periodically hosts cultural events and exhibitions. The environment welcomes and guards the precious sparkling wine that rests placidly waiting to be ready to be uncorked.     We almost feel as if we are witnessing a ceremony, in the silence of the basement and surrounded by stacks of bottles whose contents follow precise artisanal protocols refined through experience. Among the sparkling wines we find the vintage rosé 'Sansevieria', obtained from the manual harvesting of Nero di Troia grapes with its gentle colour and sweet citrus scent.     For dry lovers, the 'Pas Dosè' made from Bombino Bianco and Pinot Nero is a sparkling wine with a convincing character softened by hints of pastry. Montepulciano and Pinot Noir are the precious ingredients of 'Brut Rosè', a sparkling wine with a fine, rounded flavour and aromas of bread and toasted fruit.     Ethereal and gentle is the bouquet of 'Brut', the first sparkling wine to be produced by the house, which envelops the consumer with fruity scents of apple, yellow peach and orange. Leading us on this sparkling wine journey are Anna d'Amico, daughter of Girolamo, and Daniele Rapini, son of Louis.     Because one of the characteristics of the winery is the interweaving of friendship and familiarity that binds the members of the company. The three founding partners were joined in 2019 by the so-called 'new generation' embodied by the three children: Anna d'Amico, Daniele Rapini and Antonio Priore, all three of whom are driven by the desire to carry on the tradition started by their fathers.     Each bottle of d'Araprì sparkling wine is like a perfect jazz melody: it slowly reveals its amazing notes, telling of a product that smells of Apulia and friendship.